Kathmandu = Greatness

The Girls!!! at the end of the night.

Alicia, Shivani and I!

Alicia and I, someone has had alot to drink :)

ME!!! plus 3 Whiskey Sours...

The Blues Band at Attic Bar.

Me, Alicia, Shivani, Emma and Pieter....groovin' to the Blues!

Pieter chilling at Attic Bar.

Alicia checking out her aroma....

ATTIC BAR!!! Shivani and Emma (you are going to be so happy I put this on my blog).

More Garden of Dreams :)

Alicia and I at Garden of Dreams

Garden of Dreams....

The most laundry I have EVER seen in one place...out on the line.

Another Volunteer House Sunset!

DOLPA!!!

Yes! Jake (volunteer from Australia, who is going to Dolpa with me) and I got our permits today! We were worried the placement in Dolpa may not work out. All is well, we leave tomorrow morning taking a bus to Nepalgunj, this is a 14 hour bus ride and then we stay overnight in Nepalgunj. In the morning on Thursday, we will take a flight to Jhupal, Dolpa. So two intense days of travel and Jake and I will be in Dolpa. Phew!
The placement in Dolpa is at a primary school, mainly we will be teaching English but with the higher level grade 1 students there are opportunities to teach other subjects. I am really excited, but also nervous. I hope the students listen to me and understand what I am saying. Fingers crossed all will go well. I taking with me some easy and fun lessons, so hopefully thos will also come in handy.
I will have internet hit-or-miss while I am in Dolpa, so I will be updating my blog weekly. Well I am off to pack and then Jake, Sam, Alicia, and I are having Jake and my "last meal" (dhal bhat for 3 weeks....ugh!) at the Hyatt tonight! Until Next Time!

In the Lap of Luxury!

Okay, okay....I know Kathmandu isn't the lap of luxury, BUT! Hot shower, internet, friends and English...yeah now that's what I call luxury.

I have been back in the capital since Wednesday, and since been trying to organize my next placement to a remote village (Dolpa) where I will be teaching English for three weeks. This whole experience has proved to be trying, we have to get a permit to go where we are staying. With holiday and the death of a significant political figure we still don't have our permits and were planning to leave Tuesday. It's Nepal! So all bets are off, as to when we are ACTUALLY leaving. No worries though, patience is a virtue....one I have been acquiring since arriving in Nepal. Slowly and smoothly (as Damo, a weird Nepali man from Banepa would say), everything in Nepal slowly and smoothly.

I have been hanging out in the capital, doing laundry (I get better at handwashing my laundry everytime I do it!), reading, sitting on the roof, making lesson plans for teaching English (I know I am queer) and mentally preparing to be away again. The last two days I have had PHENOMENAL days with two of my favorites, Shivani and Alicia!
Saturday, Alicia introduced me to several new things: Mike's Breakfast, Bloody Mary's and Gin + Soda. At Mike's we had REAL BACON, which is virtually impossible to get in Kathmandu, let alone Nepal. Then we went into Thamel to the trekking office and I paid for my rafting trip. YEH! April 18th I am going white water rafting for 4 days. I am so pumped! We went to a bookstore where I bought English-Nepali picture books to use when I am teaching. To end the day with a BANG, we checked out the Garden of Dreams. It is in Thamel, which is dirty, filthy, trash everywhere and dust hanging in the air. You walk into the Garden of Dreams and it is like being transported to another world...there is greenery EVERYWHERE, when moments ago you were out in Thamel which is just solid concrete flith. There are birds, flowers, fountains, and a fish pond. The Garden of Dreams also has a small cafe and bar. Alicia and I sat for an hour of more and had lemon gin+sodas. When I checked the time I couldn't believe it was 4pm already!!! When I am with Alicia time flies, we laugh about everything from Nepali culture to guys in and out of our lives to the bird that shit on her while we were walking down the street. Ha! Yes! Alicia got shit on! and I was laughing so hard as I wiped the shit off her I was crying. And as if the Nepali people weren't already staring they were gaping at these two white women cracking up on the street. Back at the volunteer house, chicken momos (which are like potstickers) topped off an absolutely AMAZING day!
Today! Shivani and I had a serious date to catch up over coffee. Shivani, my sweet Nepali friend, not only includes me in the Westernized aspects of her life but she also explains to me all of the cultural questions I have about Nepali life. We sat for 4 hours and talked about EVERYTHING. My placements, going to Dolpa, guys in my life, the guy in her life, Zach coming to visit, her caste, when she will get married (when I will get married), NEPAL, the rural culture in Nepal, her family, my family, everyone in the volunteer house (don't worry all good things!), and much more...I could keep going but I will stop. Shivani also helped me with some Nepali language questions. Coffee turned into lunch and we probably could've went into dinner, but Saturday the former prime minster died. Today was his funeral, and Shivani thought it was better to get my back to the volunteer house before transportation stopped running due to the "holiday." Oh goodness! What a great day with Shivani!
Now back at the volunteer house, I am hoping and praying that two things will happen. 1) Jake and I will get our permits to go to Dolpa and 2) I will be able to sleep tonight! For whatever reason insomnia has been plaguing me, but no worries! It has helped me stay in touch with my family because the US is 10 hours behind. So everyone out there reading my blog, I am putting my wishes in your hands. I know you all are a powerful force, because my trip to Nepal was graced with some many blessing I know it was your collective positive energy that helped me. So say a prayer, make a wish, or place some positive energy in the universe for me, because I need it for two pretty important issues. Thanks Everyone! Until Next TIme!

Here I go AGAIN....Ranting!

Even though I LOVED Chauturali, there were some things that I wish were different...like running water would have been phenomenal or maybe not living in a house with dirt floors, we won't even go there about the squat toliet. BUT! What I really want to complain about is the all the yacking! I know that I have discussed this topic in previous blogs, but I had only seen the tip of the iceberg because I had only experienced the modest Kathmandu yack. Now the rural yacking that took place in the remote village of Chauturali was something of a competitive art form. Honestly! If hacking loogies was an olympic sport, the rural Nepali men AND women would win the gold medal EVERYTIME! Not only did everyone yack professionally in Chauturali, but the grandfather of my host family had some congestive lung issues. This meant he was a seasoned veteran in projected his mucus from within. His yacking was especially noticeable at night, and evidently he quite often kept the whole neighborhood up....according to my nurse (my neighbor). He almost seemed to draw out the yacking part either emphasis his talent or get the most mucus up as possible, I honestly think it was the latter. I truly did feel bad for Bh-wa (grandfather), because if I was awake due to his yacking then so was he....poor guy. But no one else in Chauturali had the excuse of an medical issue to excuse their disgusting projectile yacking. In closing, I apologize if you chose to read this blog while enjoying your lunch or just before preparing dinner, because I am now certain you have lost your appetite. Next time please do not read ranting blogs pre-consumption of food...unless you are dieting, because I am sure with 3 more months in Nepal I will have to complain about the yacking several more times.

More Chauturali Pictures!

Ah-ma and I, this is on my last day...two weeks without a shower, please forgive my nappy hair. Thank goodness pictures can't smell!!!

The cool little natural alley way to my host family's house from the fields.

Then Ashik wanted to be able to take a photo, because Nabin got to take one. Ha!

Ashik and I hanging out in the "porch."

The boys being silly, I wish I had video of this...it was HILarious!

My dirt floor dirty feet!

Nabin (left) and Ashik (right)

Sweet sunset picture, also shows one of the trails that are everywhere.

The nurse's field.

The road that takes you out to another little village.

I LOVED this house because (when the power was on) they blasted Nepali music out into the fields to entertain the workers!

Chauturali Pictures!!!

More Pictures to Come!!! Stay Tuned!
Sunset from the school rooftop.

Grassy views from my walk to and from the clinic.

My favorite lonely tree.

Inside the Health Post

Outside the Health Post...loving the Nepali graffiti!

View from the "porch"....aka kitchen/dining room, which is kind of outside.

Ladder downstairs.

My dirt floor FABulousness!

The EVEN more FABulous squat toliet!!!

....but doesn't the view make up for the toliet!

Hill view of Chauturali valley

Langtang Range

The view (on a clear day) from my reading spot.

My WONDERFUL reading spot.

My bedroom in Chauturali!

Chauturali: Week 2

Once I was settled in I got a wonderful little routine to my time in Chauturali. "Sleeping in" (aka laying in bed, awake, avoid butter tea....YUCK!) I put this in quote because insomnia has plague me pretty much the entire time I have been in Nepal. I think this is because I am almost 12 hours difference from home, and like people who work nights, I will never sleep well at night because it is daytime in the States. I would get up read and journal, wash up in a small dish of water, eat breakfast and head to the clinic. This was all done at a super slow leisurely pace...I loved it, so different from the States where everything is about time and hurry hurry hurry.
My second week at the clinic wasn't quite as exciting as my first, mainly because Gyami and Jeeven (the health post staff) had to do end of the month paper work. YES! In Nepal they just started a new month, and it is also year 2066...ummm yeah. Nepal is 57 years ahead of the States, that is obviously just a figure, because they are behind in so many things. Evidently, Nepal runs off a totally different calendar and the new year starts in the middle of April, who knew? My final week at clinic I dressed some interesting wounds, adminstered some Depo shots, and ran medications out to patients in the waiting area (which was actually outside the clinic, the Nepali love the sunshine).
Aside from the clinic being alittle boring my last week, I adventured around Chauturali...visiting people's fields and their water buffalo. One evening I walked to the school and watched the sunset from the rooftop of the school, it was absolutely beautiful. There were two almost magical rainstorms while I was in Chauturali, with giant raindrops that made a deafening music against the tin roof as thunder rolled in the background. I hung out with my host family, communicating with friendly hugs and some kind of secret sign language. Ashik and Nabin kept me entertained with homework questions and draws of their national flowers and precise pictures of their future homes. This boys were one of the highlights to my time in Chauturali, I can still see Ashik peeking his head in my doorway and giving my a shit-eating grin when I catch him checking in on me. Ah-ma was another never ending source of endearment for me, she would just sit next to me while I was reading and rest her head on my shoulder or her hand on my knee. Another thing that I LOVED about ah-ma was she smoked this HUGE pipe, just imagine alittle old Nepali lady with a giant wooden pipe, it still makes me giggle thinking about it.
Now back in the capital I find myself missing little things about Chauturali, like the sweet smell of animals, hay and the spices they cook with. Or hearing one of the ladies of the house sift rice on these HUGE woven platters, it makes it almost music sound. Or waking up to Ah-ma singing the morning Hindu prayers, hearing her voice weave in and out the the rooms of the house as she blesses various places, plants and animals. Or the sound of crickets coming out at night, and the voices of the boys chatting away in Nepali, usually heatedly over their homework. These are all wonderful things that blessed my time in Chauturali, I feel so grateful for toughin out those first few difficult days to walk away with these memories which will last a lifetime.

Chauturali: Week 1

I'm BACK!!! Here is the recount of my first week in Chauturali...
I have decided that I am always going to be alittle nervous when I head out to a new placement. When Tashe (this sweet Tibetan/Nepali guy who works for Volunteer Nepal) showed up on March 3rd to take me to Chauturali, I was hesistant to leave the volunteer house. But I fought off the nerves and headed out to the bus at 8:30am. We took a series of cabs, and buses to get to this town about 2 hours outside of Kathmandu. Now, when I chose this placement I knew there was a 2 hour walk from where the bus dropped you off to the village. Well I really think it should have said "walk" also known as a 2 hour HIKE! Honestly, I was just thanking my lucky stars that we were hiking down instead of up, because the trail was REALLY narrow and steep. Several times on the hike down to Chauturali I almost fell, thank goodness for Tashe! He carried my pack all the way to Chauturali, true to me in Nepal...I packed WAY too much crap!
After two hours, Tashe and I come into this little village which "main street" is shorter than a football field. We go into my host families house and I immediately think...."is this a barn?" I quickly retract that thought, telling myself I am a country girl and I can do this (but obviously still really unsure of myself). So as I go up the ladder I peer out in the "yard" and there are three goats, a cow, a calf, and several chickens....Yup! This sure is rural. Once upstairs, I note the dirt floors...no more wearing socks (for the entire two weeks, I loved it!). Then I noted the food the host family cooked for Tashe and I was made over a fire....no stove, no gas, wood fire! Yeah! this is definitely rural! Tashe had to leave shortly after we arrived in order to make the hike back for the last bus....have I mentioned yet that NO one in the house speaks any English? Well you got that right, NO one speaking English.
With Tashe gone, I am just trying to remain calm...tell myself that I am overreacting and I will be fine. But quoting my journal, "my bones were screaming for my to get the HELL out of here!" Still forcing myself to remain calm. I read my book, wrote in my journal, then my host family two youngest components came home from school Ashik (13) and Nabin (11). My host family consisted of Narayan and his wife (I asked several times, but she never told me here name???), there two sons (Ashik and Nabin) and Narayan's parents. After dinner, I quickly headed off to bed...after the hike and all my nerves I just needed to sleep. My room was simple, my door was held close by a nail and the line that ran to my light was live (yes! I actually touched it twice...to make sure). I do have to say it is good I am only 5'0" because if i was any taller I wouldn't fit in the space between the two walls of my room.
Day 2, I woke up resolved that I was going to make this experience great! I was going to the clinic this morning and someone that HAD to speak English and I would feel a ton better. Well that dream was squashed once I got to the clinic. Narayan walked me up to the clinic with two other random Nepali guys. They unlocked the clinic and set up everything...and then they acted like they were going to leave. Panicked I look at these men and try to explain I am not a doctor and I don't speak Nepali....Don't leave me here! So, one of the guys stayed and essentially did all the work for that day. He didn't speak English so he couldn't tell me how to help him...so yeh, the first day I just kind of sat there and watched. I went home feeling defeated, I had woken up with a new spirit about Chauturali and it quickly had been crushed. I decided that night, in the morning I was going to call Emma and if no one was going to show up at the clinic I was coming back to the capital. It was that one thought that got me through to day 3.
On my third day I called Emma, highstrung and emotional....she reassured me that Shivani would call the nurse and then get back to me. After talking to Shivani and making sure the nurse would be at the clinic that day, I began my 10 minute hike up the hill to the "Al post" (which is what my host family called the clinic aka health post). And much to my surprise, there was the nurse!!! I spent my first real day at the clinic learning the Nepali to interview the patients that came to the clinic (honestly, my Nepali didn't improve a whole lot from that day forward). Because it was Friday, the clinic closed at 1pm instead of 2pm. Heading back down to Chauturali, I was worried what my boring weekend ahead held for me. Much to my surprise when I got home Ashik was already home and he coerced me into going out into the fields with him. It was beautiful! The crops and the hills, everything was green....so wonderful. Then we ran into Ah-ma with the cow and goats...she delegated the task of corraling the cow home, to me! I was so excited, she gave me a big stick and everything. I was so proud. Day 3 ended on a very good note.
Saturday or holiday as the Nepali call it. I went out to the fields with Ah-ma, Ashik, and Nabin with the cow and the goats. AND I met the water buffalo! On this day, I finally realized how hard the women of my host family worked. While Ah-ma was in the fields gathering greens, tending the the water buffalo (which meant cleaning his pen...which in the states would be done with a pitch fork, in Nepal it is done with your bare hand. Yuck!), and getting water to take back to the house. Ashik mother (not to be confused with Ah-ma, who is their grandmother) did all the washing of the dishes and the clothes...then preceded to start dinner preparations. Emma said to me "The women of Nepal do all the work and the men of Nepal have all the power" I am starting to agree with her on this point. It was about this time in my stay at Chauturali that I finally thoroughly investigated and discovered there was no running water at my host family's house (information about the placement had claimed otherwise), this commenced on my two week long hiatus from personal hygiene.
Sunday, was back to the work week at the clinic. For whatever reason I seem to be arriving at the clinic too early, because no one was ever there when I got there (later on I learned that when the clinic opens at 10am, it means you leave your house to walk up to the clinic at 10am). That day it was just the doctor and I, it was quite a busy day. We had several cases of typhoid fever and conjunctivitis (conjunctvitis is very common, as you can imagine because proper handwashing techniques are not encouraged). We also had cases of COPD, gastritis, pneumonia, a "family planning" shot (Depo), a boy with a deep cut on his ear, and a girl with a abcess on her face. Woweee!
On Monday much to my surprise the nurse came to the house I was staying and told me it was "holiday"...no clinic. So I decided I was going to just lay around read my book and hang out. Not an hour later she comes up and tells me there has been a motorcycle accident and a man needs stitches, please come with her. Ofcourse I obilge, as we walk up the clinic this guy is bleeding all down his face and all he is doing is holding his bare hand up to his face. Once at the clinic the nurse tells me I am going to do the stitches...I am like "what the...!" I quickly explain, as clearly as I can that I have never done stitched before, but if I watch I might do the second set of stitches. She does that strange Nepali head waggle which evidently means she understands. Then as I am watching her stab at this guy's face (did I mention the local anesthetic expired and so he was doing this without any drugs? yup! that's right!), the neddle finally breaks through. I look away and I feel REALLY dizzy. I quickly try to convince myself that I don't feel sick, because I really want to do the stitches...but my body has a mind of its own and I bolt for the door as quickly as possible. Honestly, I have never ever had a problem with blood or gross wounds or anything before...It was really weird. With motorbike guy all stitched up, the nurse (Gyami) and I head back down to Chauturali. Just outside the clinic she is stopped by a man, with a woman who is so sick that she is being carried on his back like the porters do bags of rice. Gyami and this man exchange words for a moment and then we walk down. She then explains to me in her broken English that she wouldn't open the health post back up for that sick woman, because no matter what Gyami did the woman would have to go the Kathmandu. The rest of the day was spent hanging out, trying to recover from my near pass-out session over the stitches.
Tuesday, was a typical laid back day at the clinic filled with cases of pneumonia, conjunctivitis, scabies, and teeth extractions. YES! Teeth extractions, no local anesthetic...so if you ever have a sore tooth just get out your pylers and a cotton ball and rip it out yourself! Save you a trip to the dentist! That afternoon I went with Gyami out into her fields and met her water buffalo and its baby! It was so cute, but it was HUGE and only six months old. The land that surround her fields was so beautiful, I can't even begin to describe the landscape (pictures to come!).
Wednesday, the clinic proved to display some cultural discrepancies. The was a young married girl who came to the clinic claiming to be 17 years old (she looked like she was about 12) and requested oral contraceptive. After she left, Gyami said that men come from Kathmandu and marry young girls 13 or 14 years old. She didn't agree with the arranged marriages of young girls, I totally agree! That night I did one of my new favorite things in Chauturali, help the boys with their English homework. After, they sat around me and drew pictures of the Nepali national flowers and the homes they want to build one day. I was falling in love with Chauturali, one challenging day at a time.

Chauturali....here I come!

I am on to my second placement. YAY! I am getting kind of complacent in the capital, I am ready to get out there and DO! I am going to a rural village called Chauturali, where there is a medical clinic. I am really hopeful that they will let me do all sorts of things...I am not sure what, BUT I am totally pumped! I am planning to go for two weeks, but I may stay longer. The only downfall is that because this placement is so rural that I will not have internet the entire time I am there. SO! Sorry, no blogging until I am back. I know you all will miss my incessant chatter, but you will just have to hold out until I get back. I will miss you all, I have to admit I have gotten quite addicted to sharing my life in Nepal with you. Until Next Time....which may be a while.